An Ophthalmic Surgeon’s Guide To Lash Serums

Longer, fuller lashes have become one of the beauty industry’s biggest obsessions, with many turning to growth serums. But while some products can genuinely improve lashes, others may carry risks you maybe completely unaware of. Before applying any products close to your eyelids, here are the key things I believe every consumer should bear in mind.

As an Ophthalmic surgeon, I understand the appeal. Full lashes frame the eyes beautifully and create a fresher, more youthful appearance without makeup. But I also see the other side of the trend – irritated eyelids, dry eyes, allergic reactions and increasingly, patients who are unaware of the potential long-term effects of certain ingredients.

Do lash serums actually work?

The short answer is yes – some do, but the reason they work matters enormously. There are broadly two categories of products marketed for lash growth. The first are conditioning serums, with peptides, hyaluronic acid or botanical extracts to improve the condition of existing lashes.

The second category contains prostaglandin analogues (or prostaglandin-related compounds), which were originally developed for glaucoma treatment and later found to stimulate eyelash growth as a side effect. While they can prolong the lash growth cycle, they are also the ones that raise the greatest concerns from an ophthalmic perspective.

The hidden Issues

An important complication associated with long-term prostaglandin use is a condition called Prostaglandin Associated Periorbitopathy, often abbreviated to PAP. I have personally seen this in glaucoma patients using prostaglandin eye drops over time, but the concern is highly relevant to cosmetic lash serums containing similar compounds.

PAP can cause a number of changes around the eyes, including hollowing of the upper eyelids, deepening of the upper lid sulcus and loss of fat around the socket. There can also be tightening of the eyelids or darkening of the skin around the eyes over time. Not everybody will develop these effects of course, and severity varies significantly between individuals, but consumers deserve greater awareness of the potential risks associated with long-term use of prostaglandin-containing products. Remember, the eye area contains some of the thinnest and most delicate skin in the body, and therefore should never be treated casually.

Cosmetic marketing often focuses heavily on dramatic before-and-after images without adequately discussing safety, side effects or long-term data. It is sensible to seek balanced, evidence-informed guidance rather than relying purely on influencer recommendations or viral social media trends. Platforms like The Lash List can be useful for comparing reviews and understanding the differences between products before making a decision.

Understanding lash serum ingredients

The key is to understand what you are actually putting near your eyes. Some common ingredients – such as peptides, biotin, panthenol (Vitamin B5), hyaluronic acid, amino acids and various plant extracts – are generally designed to support the health and condition of existing lashes by improving hydration, flexibility and resilience so they appear healthier, shinier and less prone to breakage.

Ingredients that should prompt greater caution, however, include prostaglandin analogues or related compounds, which may appear under names such as Isopropyl Cloprostenate, Dechloro Dihydroxy Difluoro Ethylcloprostenolamide and Bimatoprost.

For me, safety always comes before dramatic results, and lash serums should:

• Avoid prostaglandin analogues where possible

• Be ophthalmologist tested/suitable for sensitive eyes

• Avoid excessive fragrance

• Have transparent ingredient lists

• Be supported by genuine clinical safety data

• Be compatible with contact lens wearers if relevant

Those with dry eye disease, blepharitis, eczema around the eyes, ocular rosacea, previous eye surgery or glaucoma should be particularly cautious and may benefit from discussing products with their eye specialist before use. I would also advise stopping any product immediately if you develop redness, irritation, swelling, itching or changes to the appearance of the eyelids.

The social media problem

One of the challenges is that many products are marketed through highly filtered online content that rarely reflects reality. As surgeons, we spend years training to protect the function and health of the eye, and cosmetic enhancement should never compromise that. This does not mean you should avoid all lash serums, but you should approach them as you would any other product applied close to the eye – with a degree of caution and informed understanding.

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Dr Julia Sen is a Consultant Ophthalmic Plastic, Reconstructive and Cosmetic Surgeon with specialist expertise in eyelid surgery, facial aesthetics and the delicate anatomy of the eye area. She is passionate about combining aesthetic enhancement with evidence-based patient safety and regularly educates on the importance of informed decision-making in cosmetic treatments.